The origins of Panno Casentino date back to the medieval wool-weaving tradition of the Stia Valley. Originally created as a durable fabric for shepherds and travelers, it has evolved over time to become an icon of Italian textile manufacturing.
One of the most iconic wool fabrics from the Casentino region, this fabric continues to stand out for its identity, texture, and distinctive character.
The tradition of Panno Casentino woolen textiles has its origins in the medieval “stia”: the region’s climate and topography have inextricably linked the development of this area to textile production since the 13th century.
Sheep farming, which already existed in Etruscan and Roman times, became the predominant activity during the 15th century as a result of the strong demand for wool from the Florentine textile industry.
At the same time, the craft of producing orbace (the fabric used by the Camaldolese monks and the Friars of La Verna to make their habits) began to flourish, though it remained confined to a limited market due to restrictions imposed by the Republic of Florence.
The first Panno Casentino is documented as having been created in 1537: this new fabric became an instant success. Its rough texture and sturdiness immediately won over the working classes, who (especially shepherds, merchants, and carters) needed cloaks that could withstand the elements and prolonged use.
Despite the rather crude nature of the finished products, this fabric from the Casentino region ended up impressing some forward-thinking Florentine officials, who recognized its market potential due to its competitive prices: in 1616, a law enacted by Cosimo II restricted the sale of Casentino fabric to its areas of production alone, effectively preventing its export outside the valley.
Despite harassment by the guilds and opposition from the Florentine authorities, throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, fullers and wool artisans continued to settle in Stia as well as throughout the valley: Over time, meeting the growing demand led to the transformation of textile workshops into industrial centers.
In the mid-19th century, the first wool mills began to spring up, events that would profoundly change the social history of the Casentino region.
First Stia (1830) and Soci (1848), then Rassina and Pratovecchio, became major industrial centers, providing employment for hundreds of residents.
During this phase, Casentino fabric underwent a revolutionary evolution, with the manufacturing process being refined to produce a warm, pure-wool fabric that was lighter than the original.
Through the innovative process of “rattinatura,” Casentino fabric acquired its very distinctive and unmistakable “curl”—a characteristic that still makes it highly prized in high fashion today.
The 19th century was also a time when new, vibrant colors began to gain popularity, replacing the old range of somber hues such as sand, gray, and red.
In this regard, legend has it that the orange and bright green (which, according to a famous interpretation by D’Annunzio, “the fire of the sunset and the green of the woods in the Arezzo valley”—and which are now among the most iconic colors of Panno Casentino) were, more realistically, the result of dyeing errors: the early use of rock alum as a mordant, combined with dyes that weren’t quite the right match, led to a curious but useful mix-up: the two new colors—first requested by local shepherds and soon after by the wealthy classes, who were captivated by their highly original vibrancy—became popular.
Starting in the second half of the 1800s, Casentino cloth experienced a veritable boom, to the point that it became a “status symbol” even among the upper middle class, where it was used primarily as a flashy and eccentric hunting or riding outfit.
Suffice it to say that prominent figures from the era of a unified Italy—such as Bettino Ricasoli, Giuseppe Verdi, and Giacomo Puccini—were not immune to the charm of this fabric, wearing garments made in the Casentino region on various occasions.
From its functional origins to its widespread use in high fashion, Panno Casentino has maintained a strong aesthetic identity.
Its colors, texture, and durability continue to make it a recognizable and internationally appreciated material to this day.
Made of wool, Casentino cloth is characterized by its curly surface, achieved through the traditional “rattinatura” process. This technique gives the fabric a compact texture that protects against the cold and retains its qualities over time.
Alongside Panno Casentino, TACS uses a selection of fabrics that share the same production philosophy: a focus on materials, respect for craftsmanship, and continuity with the textile tradition.
Every fabric—whether Panno Casentino, Fustagno, or Tweed—is selected in keeping with our production philosophy and reinterpreted for contemporary use.
